The Lake District - Haystacks

This month's MDB outing is dedicated not just to my Dad but also to another great outdoor loving man, Alfred Wainwright or as he was simply known to his friends and fans AW. Much has been documented about AW and I won't pretend to be a great authority but there is a wealth of information and biographies written about him. All I can add is to encourage you to go and find out about AW and his incredible gift to any walker wishing to enjoy the Lakeland Fells. AW produced, by hand, seven Pictorial Guide Books to the Lakeland Fells and later a guide to The Outlying Fells. He also wrote and illustrated the famous long distance Coast to Coast and Pennine Way guides and he covered the Yorkshire Dales Limestone Country and the Cumbrian Howgill Fells. AW also created a number of Sketchbooks, including one which covered Bowland, the area my Dad lived. In this book AW visited and illustrated the church, St Bartholomew's Chipping, my Dad attended regularly, proudly performed the role of Sidesman and ultimately his funeral was held there.

I felt it was time I paid homage to AW in MDB so what better place to head to but Haystacks, one of his favourite Fells and his final resting place. I thought it was appropriate to visit another church, St James' in the beautiful village of Buttermere, there I visited the well known AW window, and lift my eyes to Haystacks I did!

Having got back in my motor and tootled a short way up the B5289 to Gatesgarth Farm I re-parked, paid £4.00 for the day, brewed and booted up and off I went. My first stop was on Peggy's Bridge, where I took in the view towards Buttermere....

And the view of the day's quarry, Haystacks to the right, Warnscale in the middle and a little slice of Fleetwith Pike to the left. 

The path up starts by the side of a small wooded area. High Crag can be seen above the trees. Take a sharp left around the trees and your ascent truly starts here. 

The weather on the day was predominately gusty, with intermittent sharp showers. The recent high precipitation has swollen the becks and in turn some fantastic waterfalls. 

Fleetwith Pike during an episode of rain.

The rocky path up through Low Wax Knott and High Wax Knott.

The route continues steadily up Scarth Gap Pass.

At the top of Scarth Gap Pass I was advised by a couple that they had thought better of it owing to the wet and gusty high winds, but me being me carried on and hoped for the best, so glad I did!

The final part of the ascent to Haystacks Summit was punctuated with rocky scrambles and interesting Geological features. 

The fine Angling waters of Buttermere and Crummock were becoming more and more visible the higher I climbed.

On the plateau prior to my final climb to the summit I was treated to a glimpse of Ennerdale Water to the left, with Seat in the foreground, High Crag behind with its steep south face Gamlin End.

Looking down into the Ennerdale Valley from Haystacks Summit. The River Liza runs through fragments of woodland and Looking Stead stands behind.

The final climb to the Summit.

The Summit Tarn.

The Summit standing at 597m (1,958ft) is my highest Wainwright yet.... Time to rest MDB, soak in the views and hunker down against the gusts.

The next port of call was an important one.... I made my way over to Innominate Tarn, AW's final resting place, to share a few moments with him in MDB.

It was the only appropriate place to sit read AW's words on The Summit. 

Once I had paid my respects to the great man I left for Blackbeck Tarn along another section of rocky path.

Blackbeck Tarn.

The view out towards Buttermere along Black Beck.

Another treat for me was to visit Warnscale Head Bothy, my first ever!

I have been dreaming of visiting this lovely little Lakeland slate quarry workers dwelling for ages. I was so happy to finally be there. 

Wow.... What a view!!!

I love how it blends effortlessly into the slate scree Landscape. 

Having spent some time there I started my descent via Warnscale 

The dramatic sound of the Warnscale Waterfall became the soundtrack to my descent. 

At Warnscale Bottom I crossed over a footbridge, a good place to flip my map (OL 4) before continuing to make my way around the base of Fleetwith Pike back to Gatesgarth Farm. 

In the absence of trees, Bracken (Pteridium aquilinum) provides the Autumnal colour on the fells. This highly toxic, very hardy plant is widespread over the Lakeland Fells and without it the fells would remain green and not the beautiful bronze they are at this time of year. 

As you round the end of Fleetwith Pike you will notice a White Cross high up on a ledge. I have read that It is dedicated to Fanny Mercer who worked as a maid at a house on the shores of Crummock Water, who died by tripping over her ice axe (Alpenstock) and accidentally falling from the fell in 1887. Her death is commemorated by this cross and a collection box for the Mountain Rescue.... So please take a some spare change with you and donate to this valuable service. 

This was simply a brilliant walk, my fourth Wainwright and I shall be back very soon. I am glad that the views weren't too brilliant today, it gives me more to look forward to next time. AW said it was a surprising place to linger and explore and a great spot to get a persistent worry out of your mind, how right he was.... He should have added addictive too!

Map: Bing and Ordnance Survey

Till next time.... Tight laces! MDB xx

NB Thank you so much Claire for your wonderful hospitality and Phil as always, for your wise words and guidance. 

Yorkshire Dales - Malham, Janet's Foss, Gordale Scar, Malham Tarn and Cove

My family and I have visited the lovely little Dales village of Malham a good number of times over the years; and independently The Tarn, Cove, Janet's Foss and Gordale Scar but strangely we have never connected them up and walked what many label as one of the quintessential Yorkshire Dales Classics. This is Limestone Landscape and the very best there is, with fields, barns and drystone walls everywhere. The route is punctuated with geological wonders and is easy to follow. 

I started my day parked on the road side just outside Malham, once I was booted up I set off into the village. The walk starts at the rear of the Village Smithy, over a little stone clapper bridge that spans Malham Beck. 

Once over, bear right and join the Pennine Way, carry along for a short section until a finger post guides you to the left in the direction of Janet's Foss. The path then takes you through fields, beside drystone walls and on into a woodland. 

Janet's Foss, a small waterfall, can be found in a clearing at the far end of the woodland. The legendary magic of this spot is some what ruined due to its popularity, it is always very busy as it can be readily accessed by many. It is worth a visit because it is a very attractive feature and it is on the route. 

The obvious path carries you out of the woodland and towards a road, cross the road, turn right carry on a short way, take a left on to what is at first a track on an open field campsite. The track becomes a path that takes you into a dramatic limestone ravine, the gentle slopes of limestone scree soon become towering stone faces. As you take a right into the base of Gordale Scar you will find a much larger and more impressive waterfall.

The limestone faces were strung up with climbers rope and many were performing some impressive climbing moves. The climbing I had come to do was not the walls but the waterfall, however my dizzying fear of heights caused me to feel somewhat anxious about this part of the walk. Fortunately I had been given some brilliant tips and advice by my great mate Phil which proved to be invaluable, thanks so much! There are plenty of tips online as to how to tackle Gordale, I was glad that the volume of water, on the day, for me, was low.

The first of the day's two MDB shots, partway up Gordale, notice the less than relaxed position here. 

Carrying on up the waterfall system. 

Phew, at the top!!! 

Once I had had some refreshment, a good brew stop, I continued along toward Malham Tarn passing sections of limestone pavement and open grassland. 

The path takes you towards a road, turn right onto a track and continue along. Carry on straight ahead when you get to a crossroad, a finger post gives a clear direction to Malham Tarn. Along this track you will see a few little drystone wall enclosures with small wind-pruned trees, I was amazed to see from the sign attached to one of these enclosures that they were constructed to protect a small tree. I am always pleased to see tree planting efforts but what irks me is that the tree growing inside these impressive fortifications is a Sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus) a British non-native! A tree that is hardy but supports very little and is commonly seen as a weed. A better, more suitable choice of tree could have been made in my opinion especially as Malham Tarn, a National Nature Reserve holds biological SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest) and Ramsar status. 

Malham Tarn is also, amazingly, being 377m (1,237ft) above sea level England's highest lake. I have checked this but if anyone knows any differently please comment. I assumed a body of water in the Lake District would have been the rightful owner of this title. The Tarn has been a popular spot for Trout Anglers for many years until, I remember Dad telling me, The Tarn became an un stocked fishery and the only fishing tickets available would be for 'catch-and-realease' from unpowered (rowing) boats. As Dad said "a lot of effort for no tea!" He concluded that a trip to The Tarn, was indeed, worth the effort!

The path takes you away from The Tarn at Tarn Foot and you make your way towards a small car park. Cross the road and though a gate following a finger post guiding you onto another section of the Pennine Way. The route starts in a field, follows along a wall and out into another limestone ravine.

You carry along this very rocky path, when you round the bend at Comb Hill you get a glimpse of the lower section of the walk.

The path leads down to a style and a wall where the path runs parallel. 

Soon you will be on the Malham Cove's Limestone Pavement, made up of an amazing mosaic of Clints (rocks) and Grykes (gaps). I had forgotten that some of the Clints moved, and again as I was giving my Vertigo a try I got a bit of a wobble near the edge as I was photographing the beautiful view. 

I decided a safer seated position was a better bet to admire the view and rest MDB. 

When I had made my way down I walked into The Cove, where the climbers were out in force again. One thing I have noticed along the whole route are the very low water levels in the becks, The Tarn and The Cove, I understand this is a national issue owing to this year's extended dry weather. 

The well made path from The Cove back towards the village of Malham is a Dales treat, following the beck, drystone walls and little bridges. 

Malham has a number of good pubs and cafés, perfect for a little refreshment before setting away. 

I am so pleased I have been able to test a personal fear and win, while finally connecting up all these great Yorkshire geological features in MDB. A grand day out, in a word.... Classic! 

Map: Bing and Ordnance Survey

Till next time.... Tight laces! x